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Coming soon! Bloomsbury Academic www.bergpublishers.com Rice and Beans A Unique Dish in a Hundred Places by Richard Will and Livia Barbosa August 2012 256 pp PB $978184788904129.95 August 2012 256

Rice and beans, we are told, were introduced into England during the Roman period (circa 200 BC) as a source of cheap but satisfying and nutritious food for the masses. It goes back farther, to the 7th century B.C. when they first appeared in China and India and to the Romans, who came with the long and winding road of trade to the rest of the world, reaching as far south as Mesoamerica. The idea of eating rice and beans seems both to have been an inescapable and natural part of the human race, a cultural universal that has remained intact. In recent years, however, food research over the last decade has brought into sharp focus how much rice and beans differs from anywhere else in the world. From Latin America to Japan, there is abundant evidence that rice and beans do indeed vary significantly from place to place. Rice and beans are much more widely accepted as part of the traditional diet of these populations than they are in England and northern America, to go along with the more complex and complex versions of Spanish food that have become popular there. Why, if rice and beans were so universal, would the very presence of one region of the world—the English countryside, for example—make one style so unusual? In the 19th century, a British explorer named James Cook made what became, to the British public, one of the finest and most influential discoveries in the history of modern science. After traveling widely through the Galápagos Islands, he brought back with him a variety of different species and then discovered that the Galápagos Islands in reality shared a single island with a giant tortoise living in a deep hole. The giant tortoise had apparently been found on this particular island for more than a thousand years and the scientists who first observed and recorded its tootling habits had identified it as a kind of modern-day tortoise, not the species that had first arrived hundreds of years before. In Cook's day, no one—not even the Galápagos scientists who had first collected the tortoise—thought this was odd and the tortoise was accepted just as simply as a native island animal. To the English, a dish of roasted, dried and sliced giant tortoise, known simply as tortoise-on-a-stick, was simply known as “terracotta” and was eaten all over England, often in the back of a coach or on a rainy Sunday in the streets. At the turn of the 20th century, however, the tortoise was in trouble.

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