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What causes waves? Well, it really depends on — OH HI!! Not that kind of wave. I’m talking about water waves. But it’s good to remember there are many kinds of waves. There are sound waves which are caused by oscillations in the air. There are light waves, which are carried by speedy photons. And there are water waves which you find in bodies of water like the ocean. These are the waves we’ll talk about today. The regular waves you find at the beach are caused by the wind. This might seem strange since the waves keep coming, even if it’s a calm day. But these waves are made by more than the wind right here; they’re made by the wind blowing across the entire ocean. And the ocean is huge! If you were able to walk on water, it would take you about 76 days to walk from Los Angeles to Tokyo. So even if the wind is not blowing here at the coast, you can be sure it’s blowing somewhere across the vast ocean. The blowing wind scrapes across the surface of the water giving it a bit of a push. The energy from this push is passed along to the water. There are different factors which determine how much energy is passed from the wind to the water. Is it a strong wind or a weak wind? Is the wind isolated or spread out over a large area? And how long does the wind blow? All of these things play a role in just how much energy is pushed into the water. This means even when the weather is perfectly calm at the beach, you might see giant waves if there’s a storm out at sea. There are other waves which are more rare and destructive ‒ tsunamis… Tsunamis are not made by the wind. They’re made by a massive displacement of water. For example, when you get in a bathtub, you displace a lot of water and make waves. You are making teeny tiny tub tsunamis! It takes a massive event to displace enough water to cause such a gigantic wave in the ocean. One possibility is an earthquake. For example, the Boxing Day tsunami which struck Southeast Asia in 2004 was caused by an earthquake which measured 9.1 on the Richter Scale. At the bottom of the ocean, two tectonic plates slipped. A 1600 kilometer section of the ocean floor shifted up about 15 meters. This lifted the water above it triggering the wave. A similar catastrophe struck Japan in 2011 when a 9.0 earthquake occurred offshore. And while tsunamis are destructive and terrifying, luckily they are rare. Another way to displace massive amounts of water is by dropping a huge object in a body of water. You may have seen this when someone cannonballs into a swimming pool. The result is a series of large waves which can be awesome or annoying, depending on your point of view. Something similar caused the tallest recorded wave — a megatsunami in Alaska. In 1958 a large earthquake caused a landslide into Libya Bay. The mega splash caused a wave over 500 meters tall! Surfs up? Dude, I don’t think so… In addition to earthquakes and landslides, there’s another source of tsunamis… Space! Outer space is teeming with large rocks....
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