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The first thing you need to determine when identifying if a lease exists in a contract is if the contract conveys the right to control the use of identified property, plant, or equipment (an identified asset) for a period in exchange for consideration.
For example, you lease a new car for three years. The net capitalized cost = $26,000 — $1,000 — $3,000 = $22,000. The residual value = $30,000 x 55% = $16,500. The number of monthly payments = 3 years x 12 months/year = 36.
In broad terms, you calculate a lease by determining and adding the depreciation fee, plus a monthly sales tax and a financing fee. If you're looking to calculate your payment manually, here is the formula: Start with the sticker price (MSRP) of the car. Take the MSRP and multiply it by the residual percentage.
A $30,000 vehicle with a 65 percent residual would have a base monthly payment of $292 before taxes, interest and fees. Choosing the vehicle with the higher residual percentage would net a savings of more than $200 per month for a vehicle with the same selling price.
Example. Assume you lease a car for 36 months, with an adjusted cap cost of $35,000. They give you a residual of 54% after 36 months ($18,900).
The formula is: Interest Rate = Money Factor x 2400 But neither the money factor nor your interest rate is likely to be present on your contract. You'll have to ask your dealer.
Any lease that costs less than $125/month per $10,000 worth of vehicle is considered a good lease deal. Anything below $105 per $10K is a fantastic deal. IF (“Real” Monthly Payment / MSRP) * 10,000 is less than $125, then it's a good lease deal. The very best lease deals I've seen hover around the $100 per $10k mark.
Any lease that costs less than $125/month per $10,000 worth of vehicle is considered a good lease deal. Anything below $105 per $10K is a fantastic deal. IF (“Real” Monthly Payment / MSRP) * 10,000 is less than $125, then it's a good lease deal. The very best lease deals I've seen hover around the $100 per $10k mark.
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