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Welcome to another episode of pandemic apparel this episode has been long overdue and highly requested grading the basic bodice this tutorial will cover the grading rule breakdown how to grade with a grading machine and ruler in part two I will show you how to grade with Adobe Illustrator recommended books and the pros and cons of all of these grading methods for those of you who are new to grading check out my previous tutorial grading the basic skirt, and you'll also find a brief description of what grading is so gone ahead and check that out and come back and finish this episode the breakdown for the basic bodice with a side and waist start with a one and a half inch grade will be thus the length wise is for all sizes so from the armhole its 0 and the neck its 1/16 that's parallel to the shoulder and then from Center front to waist you're going to enlarge it a quarter, so that's going to be an eighth and an eighth then width wise at the neck it's going to be one sixteenth at the shoulder it's going to be one eighth at the side seam is 3/16 so if you add all those together then that gives you three eights, so you have three eights for the right and three it's for the left and that equals 3/4 and then for the back you have three fourths so that equals one and a half so there you have your one and a half inch grade so for the one-inch grade again the length is the same the width is going to be one sixteenth at the front one sixteen at the shoulder, and you notice at the bottom the dark gets split up it gets 16 in the front and there on the side and then for the side grade you can get an eighth for the two-inch grade again the length is the same the width is going to be at the neck one eighth at the shoulders going to be one eighth and if you see at the bottom it gets split up into zero at the front and an eighth at the side and then for the side grade you can get a quarter now in industry these measurements and breakdowns would be a little different and every company has their own breakdowns and rules and stuff, but this is the basic for this tutorial I'll be using tape pencil paper pattern ruler or grading machine so for those of you who are returning I'll briefly go over the movements and the wording that I use it's up down in out and this is the way you would see it on a dress form on a person I'll be rotating it when I have it in the machine or on the ruler braiding machine now I already went ahead and drew the grain line on the paper and a perpendicular line, and then I lined up my pattern piece to those lines and put them in the machine as the point of reference so you guys know where the zero point is I'm writing it on the paper I'm going to go from a size 8 which is my pattern piece to a size 10 using a one-inch grade, so I'm going to move up an eighth and Mark the center front neck now I'm going to go up a sixteenth and out of 16th and Mark the neck shoulder for the armhole shoulder I'm going to go down 1/16 and out of 16 and don't...
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