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So I'm working on a white outdoor zero-turn and this is an AT 50 so that stands for zero turn 50-inch and basically this thing it runs it drives, but the PTO wouldn't engage, and we've figured out that the PTO works because we put 12 volts directly to it, and after I jumped a few safety switches just to bypass them I use a little piece of yellow wire and I go in to where the switch is right here, and I bypass it this thing fired up and when I clicked the PTO switch the PTO engaged so that let me know that it was this little safety switch right here that's bad, and I ended up testing that I went here to here with my multimeter tested for continuity and there was no continuity in either position, so I ordered a couple of them and that is your reverse switch, so it lets you know that your machines in Reverse and if we come over here to the driver's side you can read right here it says PTO automatically disengages when both lap bars are into the reverse position so even if one of them is into the reverse position I guess because I bypassed the one, and I had the other one plugged in, and it worked which means that that reverse switch is good, but it was this reverse switch over here that was bad, so that's quick fix I just got to order parts for that, but now I'm working on this Too, and I'm just doing a little test here I got my battery booster supplying 12 volts to my ground and my positive, and I've grounded to the frame, and I've also grounded to the wire my ground is good, so I tested the solenoid itself and I have my positive lead hooked up to the positive this is a four-post solenoid and you guys can see on my how to test a solenoid video on a four-post you have to go hot and ground which is positive and negative on a three post you only have a 12 volt positive, and it grounds to the frame, so you want to make sure that you have a good ground because a lot of times what will happen is you'll get rust underneath this solenoid, and you'll get a bad ground, but basically I'm test this with my Eliminator here, and I turn this, and you'll hear the solenoid click so that magnet is picking up in there, so we know that the solenoid tests okay I've also tested the key switch, and I've also replaced it just to double-check the key switch tests okay so right now I'm looking at most likely either a faulty brake switch or a faulty deck switch so here's the deck switch you can hear it click but just because it clicks doesn't mean that it's actually engaging on you know the electrical side of things, so I'm going to have to probe the connector right there just to make sure that it is in fact working because something's preventing 12 volts from going to the solenoid when you turn the key switch into the start position which is the spring-loaded all the way to the right, so normally that's a safety switch and on these you know it could have multiple switches, but that is your deck height, and sometimes they have a switch there to make sure your deck is all...
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